Bicycle Research Tools

About Bicycle Research Products, Inc.

Bicycle Research Products is one of the many new bicycle businesses which started up to fill the need for bicycle parts and tools during the 1970’s bicycle boom. Bob Force and Don Milberger were coworkers at the University of California Radiation Laboratory (now the Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory), in the Electronics Engineering department at the “Bevatron” proton accelerator. Becoming interested in the new ten speed bikes, they decided to get involved. In 1971 they opened “The Bicycle Shop” in Concord, California selling Mercier and American Eagle bicycles. The shop soon became known as a “professional bicycle shop” importing Campagnolo, Cinelli, Colnago and other products before there were US distributors. They also began making custom frames and forks as well as repairing and painting framesets.

Bicycles were hard to come by and parts and tools were almost impossible to obtain. Fortunately metalworking was a hobby so they made their own tools which were soon in demand by other local shops. Distributor reps learned of the tools and asked that their companies be allowed to resell them. The tool business became the tail that wagged the dog and the bicycle shop was closed after 18 years to allow full time in the manufacturing business.

Bicycle Research is truly a manufacturer which does its own design work, makes its own tooling, writes its own computer programs and does much of the machining in its own machine shop. Casting, plating, anodizing, heat-treating and some high volume production work is done by outside vendors. All of our vendors are picked for the quality of their work and on the recommendation of our other vendors. None of our outside work is done by low bidders!

In addition to standard tools such as cone wrenches, cluster tools etc. Bicycle Research makes many tools, which were new to the industry and in many cases are still made only by BR. Among these unique tools designed to make the bicycle mechanics life easier are:

Brake Boss Mills-two sizes of hollow milling cutters for the sizing and repair of cantilever brake bosses.

Bearing Punch-a piloted punch for removing the “second” sealed bearing from a hub or bottom bracket.

Chain Ring Tool-a special tool for straightening chain rings, sprocket teeth etc.

Cluster Vise-a non-slip vise to hold clusters for disassembly.

Cup Press-a press for quick installation of “American” bottom bracket and headset bearing cups.

Frame Blocks- three sizes of heat-treated aluminum blocks for rolling dents out of frame tubes and for holding tubing in a vise. Accurate enough to be used in building frame jigs.

Nipple Drivers-special offset screwdrivers for screwing nipples onto spokes while building wheels. (See New Product Release April 2004.)

Rim Saver-special pliers to remove dents from bicycle rims.

Sealed Bearing Removal Kit-a set of expanding collet drivers that will remove all commonly used sealed bearings from hubs, free hubs and bottom brackets, even if you cannot get to the back of the bearing.

Sealed Bearing Install Kit-an acme-threaded press with adapters to install all commonly used sealed bearings in hubs, free hubs and bottom brackets

Slide Hammers-three sizes of slide hammers for seating bearing races on fork crowns.

Thread Chasers-thread chasers to correct damaged threads on axles and crank arms.

Tire Seater-the first tool on the market used to pull tight fitting tires into the proper seat in the rim. This tool works with all size tires used on bicycles.

Bicycle Research Products are sold world wide through wholesale distributors in the bicycle trade. While many of our products are intended for the professional bicycle mechanic, there are some that are consumer tools. These may be purchased from quality bicycle shops.

The California Bicycle Products Group

In the early 1970s there was a slowdown in high tech industries in the US which found a number of talented engineers and technicians looking for employment. It is not surprising that the bicycle industry was appealing to these people, as the bicycle has always been a high tech machine. Here in California it was not unusual to find that the bicycle shop owner had an engineering degree. The early 1970s also witnessed what was known as the "bicycle boom"as the ten speed bike suddenly opened the market to a very large buying public. Bicycle manufacturers could not supply the demand and there was a waiting list for bicycles at dealerships. Bicycles were in short supply and parts and tools were non existent! Some of the new talent and some of the veteran bicycle professionals saw an opportunity to supply parts, frames, tools, bicycle shop fixtures and aids. The California Bicycle Products Group was formed by some of these small new businesses to cooperate in advertising, sharing booth space at dealer shows and to advise each other on product design and manufacture.

The original members of this group were Phil Wood & Co. (first sealed bearing hubs), Lindcraft (bicycle display and parking racks), Albert Eisentrout (custom frames & forks), Howard Sutherland (bicycle shop aids) and Bicycle Research Products (bicycle tools). Shortly after the formation of the group Emily K (cycling clothing) joined us. After many years the individual members of the group grew in size and found the need for cooperative advertising and booth sharing to diminish. The group became dormant as some drifted away from the formal group and went it on their own.

The members remained good friends and found that they still called on each other for advice and always got together socially at the bicycle shows. It has recently been decided that since they were still close, that they return to the formal cooperative aspects of the group. Current members of the group are: Albert Eisentrout Albert was one of the first quality frame builders of the bicycle boom times and continues to build fine framesets.

Phil Wood & Co.; Phil Wood has expanded their line of sealed bearing hubs, produced the first sealed bearing bottom bracket, the worlds finest spoke machine and now even offers complete high-end bicycles. Phil & Vada Wood have retired and Peter Enwright is now the president of the company.

Lindcraft ; Lindcraft continues to produce the finest bicycle display fixtures for bicycle shops as well as bicycle parking racks.

Bicycle Research Products; Bicycle Research Products continues to design and manufacture unique tools for bicycles, as well as a few parts.

Howard Sutherland ; Howard has gone from his first product, a spoke length calculator to repair and sales documents and “Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics” the bible of bicycle mechanics.

Jim Stein ; Jim is unique to the group in that he lives in Arizona. California has been known to take a lot of Arizonans water so we thought that it would be OK to take Jim. Jim designs and manufactures some of the finest bicycle tools in the world so we have made him an honorary Californian.

Rivendell Bicycle Works Also unique in that Rivendell is not a manufacturer like the rest of the group. They sell an interesting assortment of bicycle parts and accessories via the WEB and by catalog.

The first planned cooperative showing of the renewed group will be at the 1999 Interbike show in Las Vegas. Stop by at the show to see our latest products and say hello.

Product Catalog

Wheel Tools

Bearing Installer | Bearing Remover | Bearing Punch Kit | Rim Saver | Tire Seater | Cluster Removers | Cluster Vice | Axle Thread Chasers | Nipple Driver

Rim Saver (RS)

Removes dents in rims caused by under- inflated tires or over - the - curb antics. Saves time in your shop… the Bicycle Research Rim Saver may be used while the wheel is on the bike.

Cluster Removers

A complete line of cluster removers for most common clusters. Great for over the counter sales as well as for shop use. All of these remover tools from BRT are drilled to fit over 12 mm tandem axles as welll as the usual 10 mm. The CT -1 has a retaining ring to hold the tool centered on the cluster… prevents damage from slipage.

Cluster Tool Order No.
Regina Type CT-1
Atom Type CT-2
Normandy Type CT-3
Shimano Type CT-4
TDC Type CT-5
Shimano UG Type CT-6

Shimano UG Type Heavy Duty CT-6MB
Shimano 600EX Type CT-600
Sun Tour Type, 2 Prong CT-7
Campagnolo Type | CT-9
Sun Tour Type, 4 Prong | CT-10

Tire Seater ( TST )

Stubborn Tires? Pull the tire bead into position easily… and end frustration. From the semi - pneumatic tires, lightweight touring wire beads to balloons, this tool will seat them all. Heat treated aluminum alloy, designed for years of service.

Nipple Driver ( NDS, NDL )

A wheel builder tool. This unique tool allows you to count turns accurately, simplifying dishing and taking the slack for truing. Fast wrist action rotates handle to spin nipple on, while guide tip holds the driver blade in place.

Cluster Vice (CV)

Non-slip removal or installation of individual sprockets … building custom clusters… this unique tool is designed to be held in a shop vice and holds up to 38 tooth clusters. Lightweight, heat treated aluminum alloy… for the shop or the amateur mechanic, this tool is definitely a FRUSTRATION FIGHTER.

Axle Thread Chasers

Clean up damaged solid axle threads with these hardened steel nuts (two cutting edges, marked for specific sizes).Use these thread chasers in your repair shop or sell them over the counter and save your customer from having to buy a new axle every time he dings one … Instructions included.





 Normandy Front

   8 MM -26


Small hex / no groove

  Normandy Rear

 9.5 mm -26


 Large Hex / no grove


5/16 -24


 Small hex / one groove


3/8 - 24


  Large hex / one groove


 5/16 -26

  Small hex / two grooves

 Chigao Skatetruck

 7.5 mm


   Small hex / three grooves

 Many BMX

3/8 -26

   Small hex / two grooves

Sealed Bearing Installation Kit (SBIK)

For installing sealed bearings in hubs, freehubs and bottom brackets which do not have shoulders on the axle or spindle. Works for all sealed bearings with a combination of 10mm, 12mm, 15mm & 17mm ID’s, and 22mm, 25mm, 27mm, 30mm, 32mm & 35mm OD bearings. The kit contains a powerful acme threaded press with six sets of adapters for bearing OD’s and three sets of bushings for bearing ID’s. Complete with instructions and a sturdy storage base for the adapters, the bushings and a sleeve used to prevent the bushings from falling into the inside of a hub.

Sealed Bearing Removal Kit (SBRK)

Works for all sealed bearings with a combination of 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm ID’s. Works on hubs and freewheel hubs that have internal spacers that prevent access to the backside of the bearings! The punches have an expansion collet which expands into the ID of the bearing so that it may be driven out with a hammer or arbor press. Complete with a sturdy storage base for the punches and expansion collets.
Individual size punches and collets are available if multiple sizes are not needed.

Individual size punches and collets are available if multiple sizes are not needed.
 SBRP-10  Small punch used for 10mm only (without collet)
 SBRP-12  Medium punch used for 12mm and 1/2 inch (without collets)
 SBRP-15  Large punch used for 15mm and 17mm (without collets)
 SBRC-10  10mm expansion collet
 SBRC-12  12mm expansion collet
 SBRC-15  15mm expansion collet
 SBRC-17  17mm expansion collet
 SBRC-1/2  1/2 inch expansion collet for wheel chair bearings

Sealed Bearing Punch Kit (BP-1)

A punch for quickly removing the “second” sealed bearing from a hub or bottom bracket. The end of the punch is machined to fit 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and 17mm bearing ID’s. Includes a pilot ring to keep the punch centered in large diameter hubs and bottom brackets.


All aluminum alloy spacers are sold in twenty-five piece increments, in the following types and sizes:
Axle Spacers | Brake Spacer | Freewheel Spacers | Headset Spacers

Axle Spacers

Axle Spacers

 Spacer Type


  Part No.

  Axle Spacer

3 mm

 AXS 3

 Axle Spacer

 2 mm

 AXS 2

 Axle Spacer

 1 mm

 AXS 1

Brake Spacer

Brake Spacer

 Spacer Type


  Part No.

Brake Spacer

6 mm


Freewheel Spacers

Freewheel Spacers

 Spacer Type


  Part No.

Freewheel Spacer

2 mm  


Freewheel Spacer

 1.5 mm

FWS 1.5

Freewheel Spacer

1.0 mm


Head Set Spacers

Head Set Spacers

 Spacer Type

I.D and Thickness

  Part No.

Headset Spacer

   1" I.D. x 1.5 mm thickness

HS 1x1.5

Headset Spacer

 1" I.D. x 2.5 mm

HS 1x2.5

Headset Spacer

 1" I.D. x 5.0 mm

HS 1x5

Headset Spacer

 1" I.D. x 10.0 mm

HS 1x10

Headset Spacer

1 1/8" x 1.5 mm 

HS 1.125 x 1. 5

Headset Spacer

1 1/8" x 2.5 mm 

HS 1.125 x 2.5
 Headset Spacer
 1 1/8" x 8 mm
HS 1.125 x 8

Headset Spacer

 1 1/4" x 1.5 mm 

HS 1.250 x 1.5

Headset Spacer

 1 1/4" x 2.5 mm 

HS 1.250 x 2.5

Frame Tools

Headset Tools | Fork Crown Race Mill | Frame Blocks | Crank Arm Thread Chaser | Sharpening Service | Slide Hammer | Cup Press | Chainwheel Straightener | Brake Boss Repair

Headset Tools ( HT1; HT2; HT3 )

Ream the inside and mill the end of the headtube all at once… also used as a press to fit bearings or cups into the head tube of the frame with a great deal of accuracy. Tool steel reamer and face cutter, lightweight alloy handle. Instructions on care and use are included.
HT1 for 1" headsets, HT2 for 1 1/8", & HT3 for 1 1/4" mountain bike headsets.

Fork Crown Race Mill (FCH)

Used to accurately mill the fork crown/steer tube junction for fitting the bottom headset bearing race. FCH is a set of cutters with an anodized aluminum alloy holding body. Interchangeable cutting tools include pilots for steer tube sizes 1", 1 1/8" & 1 1/4".



- interchangeable -


FCC - 1

 26.4 mm for 1"


FCC - 2

 27.0 mm for 1" (JIS)


FCC - 3

 30.0 mm for 1 1/8"


FCC - 4

 33.0 mm for 1 1/4"

Frame Blocks

Originally designed to squeeze wrinkles out of frame tubes, these Frame Blocks are great for quickly clamping tubes in a vise or used in a frame jig… all kinds of uses for these blocks. Heat treated aluminum alloy, accurately bored to size.

Alloy Crank Arm Thread Chaser ( TC -8 )

Re-forms extractor and or dust cap threads that have been damaged by hitting rocks, or by cross threading. Guide shaft screws into spindle - male or female - to assure a proper start of the chaser. Use either the original crank bolt or nut with a washer to help push the thread chaser up against the damaged threads.

Slide Hammer (SH 1, SH 1.125, SH 1.250)

Use to seat the fork crown bearing race onto the fork steer tube quickly and easily.

Cup Press ( CP )

For installing bearings into American type bicycle frames as well as BMX and/or cruisers.
Install one piece bottom bracket bearing cups and headset cups for frames with head tubes up to 5" long. Shorten a second cup press to 3" with a hack saw for quick installation of bottom bracket cups and/or BMX cartiridge bearings.

ChainWheel Straightening Tool ( LC )

For bent chain rings and bent chainwheel sprockets. Helps to improve derailleur function. This handy tool means a quick reach between the rings to the bent section. One quick movement and the problem is corrected!

Brake Boss Repair ( BM 8 and BM 9)

These tool steel cutters are used to repair damaged or oversize brake bosses on frames and forks. Also may be used to remove paint or flux from the brake boss. Includes a pilot screw to ensure that the cutter is properly aligned before the cut is started. The pilot screw stores in the end of the cutter to prevent loss.

New Products

New Bottom Bracket Tap - 48 mm for Isis Overdrive

Stainless T Nipple Driver Handle (STNDH)

New Square Block Base for SBIK (Sealed Bearing Installation Kit)

New SBIK2 Sealed Bearing Installation Kit

Superior bearing size range, with wider hub width and up to 25mm inside diameter bearings.

SBIK2 (Premium Level)

This kit is designed to press sealed bearings into hubs, freehubs and some bottom bracket bearings.

This tool is superior to its precursor, the SBIK, accomodating two additional bearing sizes above and below the range of the original SBIK. You will find this tool very versatile and easy to use, eliminating the need for a wrench on the moveable end.

The kit will work with bearings with any combination of 37, 35, 32, 30, 28, 26, 24 and 22mm O.D. bearings, with 25, 20, 17, 15, 12 and 10mm IDs. This will accommodate most bearings used in bicycles such as the 6000, 6001, 6002, 6003, 6802, 6901, 6902, 6903, SL-650 and R8VS bearings and more.

Retail Packaging

Nipple Drivers

Tool Instructions

Headset Tool HT-1,2,3 & S

HT-1 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1" steer tube bearing races.
HT-2 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1 1/8" steer tube bearing races.
HT-3 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1 " steer tube bearing races.
HT-S for reaming and facing head tubes used with all three sizes. (Contains three reamers)

Each of these tools will also act as a press for installing all three size bearing races in the head tube.

No need to buy a second tool for this operation!

The BR headset tool consists of a threaded shaft with an alloy T-handle, a tool steel reamer, a tool steel facing mill cutter, a multi diameter washer, a cone shaped washer, a spring and a multi diameter T-nut.

To ream and face the head tube remove the T-nut, the spring, the cone and the multi diameter washer from the shaft. Insert the shaft through the head tube until the reamer end enters the tube. Slide the cone washer on the end of the shaft with the cone facing the tube. Then install the spring and the T-nut. Tighten the T-nut until the spring is half compressed. Apply cutting oil generously to the cutters, and while pressing down on the handle turn the T-handle in a clockwise direction as seen from above. The reamer will cut its way into the tube until the facing cutter comes in contact with the end of the tube. You may need to tighten the T-nut to keep the spring compressed. The spring is to keep the cone snugly in the tube, which keeps the tool centered in the head tube. Do not use the spring tightly compressed to apply cutting pressure! Use only hand pressure to do the cutting. If this is not enough pressure, the cutters are dull and need to be sharpened! Continue to cut the end of the head tube until the cut is at least three-quarters around the diameter of the tube. Less than this and the bearing cup may cock to the side and cause binding of the fork. Continue to apply cutting oil as the operation progresses. After the first end is completed remove the tool and repeat the operation on the other end. The reaming and milling operations leave sharp edges on the ends of the head tube. The edges on the ID of the tube should be cleaned up using a deburring tool or file. This is very important if aluminum headset cups are to be installed.

Never turn the tool counter clockwise while the cutters are in contact with the head tube! When a metal cutting tool is tuned backwards the very fine cutting edge may be chipped and therefore dull. This is true of all metal cutting tools with the exception of taps and dies which must be turned backwards to remove.

To install the headset cups slide the multi diameter washer on the shaft with the correct diameter for the cups to be installed facing away from the T-handle. Slide a headset cup onto the shaft and make sure that the washer fits properly. Insert the shaft through the head tube; slip the other headset cup on the shaft followed by the T-nut. Make sure that the appropriate diameter on the T-nut is facing the cup and fits properly. Turn the T-nut until the cups are loosely pressed into the ends of the head tube. Make sure that everything is in alignment, and then press the cups into the head tube by turning the T-handle clockwise until you feel an abrupt stop. This stop indicates that the cups are seated and no further pressing is needed. Turn the handle counterclockwise to remove. The cone and spring are not used for this operation.

Always use eye protection and mind the sharp edges when using cutting tools.

BP-1 Punch

BP-1 Is a punch for quickly removing the"second" sealed bearing from a hub or bottom bracket. The end of the punch is machined to fit 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and 17mm bearing IDís. Includes a pilot ring to keep the punch centered in large diameter hubs and bottom brackets. The end of the punch has a cap to prevent the punch from going through the pilot and landing on the mechanics foot. Remove the first bearing by driving out with the axle or spindle if there are internal shoulders. If there are no internal shoulders on the shaft use the BR sealed bearing removal kit. Slip the punch through the hub using the pilot ring if needed, make sure that the punch nose is centered in the bearing and tap the bearing out. Works on any hub or bottom bracket with æ inch or larger ID.

Fork Crown Race Cutter FCS

The BR fork crown race cutter set consists of an aluminum handle, three guide rings: 1", 1 1/8" & 1 1/4"; three hollow tool steel milling cutters with IDs of 26.4 mm for 1" steer tubes, 30 mm for 1 1/8" steer tubes and 33 mm for 1 1/4"“steer tubes and a storage base to hold the components. An optional cutter with 27 mm ID for JIS 1” steer tubes is available. Note that these cutters have built-in guides to assure that the bearing seat which it cuts, is coaxial with the steer tube. This makes for a more accurate bearing alignment on most forks, but precludes the use of these cutters on steer tubes, which are bulged, larger than the nominal dimension of the steer tube.

To cut a crown race bearing seat on the fork, select and insert the appropriate guide ring and milling cutter. Tighten the set screws just enough to retain the ring and cutter. Mount the fork so that it is held firmly as considerable force is needed to cut the seat. Apply cutting oil generously to the cutter and fork crown before and during the process. Slip the cutter over the end of the steer tube and guide it gently onto the fork crown to be cut. Press down on the bar and turn the handle clockwise as seen from above. As the cut progresses clear the metal chips from the cutter teeth and apply more cutting oil. Cut until bright metal shows all of the way around the seat. It takes some amount of downward pressure to make the cutter bite into the metal. Some other makes of fork crown cutters use a spring to help exert this pressure, but ask any machinist about “springiness” and metal cutting. It may cause chattering of the cutter and leave a rippled surface for the bearing to seat on. When the effort to maintain this pressure becomes excessive the cutter is dull and needs to be sharpened.

Never turn the tool counter clockwise while the cutter is in contact with the fork crown!

When a metal cutting tool is turned backwards the very fine cutting edge may be chipped and therefore dull. This is true of all metal cutting tools with the exception of taps and dies which must be turned backwards to remove.

For more information about metal cutting operations on bicycles see the how to use this book, Materials, Tools section in Sutherland Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics.

Always use eye protection and mind the sharp edges and chips when using cutting tools.

Sealed Bearing Remover Kit

The BR sealed bearing remover kit contains three punches, five expansion rings and a plastic storage base. This kit allows the removal of sealed bearings with IDís of 1Omm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm and -inch. These bearings may be easily removed even if you cannot get behind the bearing due to an internal spacer in the hub, free hub or bottom bracket. The kit works with most bearings used in bicycles such as numbers 6000, 6001, 6002, 6200, 6802, 6900, 6901, 6902, 6903, SL-650 and the R8VS used in wheel chair hubs. The smallest punch is used for 1Omm ID bearings only. The middle size punch is to be used for 12mm and -inch ID bearings by changing the expansion ring to suit the bearing. The large size punch is to be used for 15mm and 17mm ID bearings by changing the expansion ring to suit the bearing. Use the proper size expansion ring for the bearing to be removed! Never expand the rings unless they are in a bearing with the correct size ID. These rings are designed to expand only about one thousandth of an inch and will be ruined if over expanded.

Some things to consider before you start removing bearings

Note the position of the bearings, seals, spacers, washers, lock rings, etc., as you take the hub apart. It is imperative that the hub is reassembled exactly as it was assembled at the factory. A missing or improperly installed component can lead to excessive friction in the bearings and a short life. Some free hubs have internal snap rings and/or locked-in-place spacers to locate the bearings. Be sure you know the way the free hub is assembled before trying to drive out a bearing that cannot come out until a snap ring or spacer is first removed! If you do not know the assembly of any component that you are going to work on, proceed with caution! Bearings that are installed with loctite or which have corrosion between the outer race and the hub shell may be difficult if not impossible to remove.

Removing bearings

To remove a bearing, slip the punch through the hub with the expansion ring going in last. There is a tendency for the ring to expand and bind if it is pushed through the bearings. Position the tool so that the ring is centered in the bearing to be removed as shown by a small part of the ring extending outside the bearing. With Allen wrenches on opposite ends of the tool, tighten with moderate force. (5mm for the smaller punches and 6mm for the large punch) To protect the Allen socket on the end of the punch, use a soft face hammer to drive the bearing out of the hub. There should be no problem removing bearings that are in properly fitted holes. If the tool slips through the bearing, check for loctite or corrosion. You may try again using more force to expand the ring, but do not use more force than may be comfortably applied with standard length Allen wrenches. To remove the bearing from the tool, loosen the bolt about one turn and pull the bearing off. If the bearing is on very tight, a light tap on the backside of the bearing will dislodge it.

After the bearing on one side is removed, a solid punch such as the Bicycle Research BP-1 should be used to remove the second bearing if the bore of the hub is large enough to allow it. If you should use the expansion ring tool to remove the second bearing, do so with caution. Be sure to strike the punch squarely as the expansion ring may be damaged if the tool is hit to one side.

All bearings that are removed by being driven out by the inner race should be considered damaged and replaced. This is true whether using our tool or any other tool. New bearings are relatively inexpensive compared to a warrantee repair for a failed bearing.

Some Important Notes about Sealed Bearings …

The sealed bearings used in bicycles are lightly loaded and rotate at very low speed, so they should last a long time. Failure of these bearings is generally due to internal contamination by water and/or grit, or is due to misalignment. There is little that the bicycle mechanic can do about the contamination problem, but the alignment is something that the mechanic has some control over. As mentioned before, when disassembling a hub, free hub or bottom bracket be sure to note the location of any seals, spacers, washers, lock rings or other parts so that they may be put back in the exact same location when reassembled. The design of quality bicycle components is precise and any error in assembly may cause premature failure of the bearings.

Another common cause of bearing misalignment is an axle that is bent by being installed in dropouts that are not parallel. Always check the dropouts with a dropout alignment gage and correct as needed. This includes new bicycles! Tightening a hub in misaligned dropouts may bend an axle to the extent that the bearings will bind. This is particularly true of hubs with small diameter axles. The old cup and cone bearings were a combination radial-thrust design, which could tolerate some misalignment. The modern sealed bearing in use today is a precision radial design that must be properly installed to provide the long life and low drag that they are capable of. A bearing is no better than its mounting!

Brake Boss Mill

BM-1 - 8 mm for cantilever brake bosses
BM-2 - 9mm for U brake bosses.

The brake boss mill is used to repair damaged cantilever or U brake bosses on frames and forks. It is intended to correct slightly bulged, flared, or oversize bosses. The boss may be lengthened by cutting into the base. Do not attempt to repair a bent boss with this tool, as it will weaken the boss. It may also be used to remove any paint that may be on the boss.

To use this tool, first remove the pilot screw from the top of the tool and put it onto the brake boss, finger tight. This pilot will make it easy to align the cutter straight onto the boss. Slip the tool over the pilot and turn clockwise as you feed the tool down the boss to the base. Use cutting Oil! Be sure to return the pilot back to the top of the tool after use so that it will not be misplaced.

When not in use, keep the tool oily to prevent corrosion, and protect the cutting edges from damage. To facilitate sharpening the cross bar may be removed by loosening the setscrew below the pilot.

Bicycle Research Tools Distributors

Bicycle Research Tools sells to distributors at distributor pricing.
We welcome your questions and comments about our tools.

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Bicycle Research Tools
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