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Headset Tool HT-1,2,3 & S
HT-1 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1" steer tube bearing races. HT-2 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1 1/8" steer tube bearing races. HT-3 for reaming and facing head tubes used with 1 " steer tube bearing races. HT-S for reaming and facing head tubes used with all three sizes. (Contains three reamers) Each of these tools will also act as a press for installing all three size bearing races in the head tube.
No need to buy a second tool for this operation! The BR headset tool consists of a threaded shaft with an alloy T-handle, a tool steel reamer, a tool steel facing mill cutter, a multi diameter washer, a cone shaped washer, a spring and a multi diameter T-nut.
To ream and face the head tube remove the T-nut, the spring, the cone and the multi diameter washer from the shaft. Insert the shaft through the head tube until the reamer end enters the tube. Slide the cone washer on the end of the shaft with the cone facing the tube. Then install the spring and the T-nut. Tighten the T-nut until the spring is half compressed. Apply cutting oil generously to the cutters, and while pressing down on the handle turn the T-handle in a clockwise direction as seen from above. The reamer will cut its way into the tube until the facing cutter comes in contact with the end of the tube. You may need to tighten the T-nut to keep the spring compressed. The spring is to keep the cone snugly in the tube, which keeps the tool centered in the head tube. Do not use the spring tightly compressed to apply cutting pressure! Use only hand pressure to do the cutting. If this is not enough pressure, the cutters are dull and need to be sharpened! Continue to cut the end of the head tube until the cut is at least three-quarters around the diameter of the tube. Less than this and the bearing cup may cock to the side and cause binding of the fork. Continue to apply cutting oil as the operation progresses. After the first end is completed remove the tool and repeat the operation on the other end. The reaming and milling operations leave sharp edges on the ends of the head tube. The edges on the ID of the tube should be cleaned up using a deburring tool or file. This is very important if aluminum headset cups are to be installed. Never turn the tool counter clockwise while the cutters are in contact with the head tube! When a metal cutting tool is tuned backwards the very fine cutting edge may be chipped and therefore dull. This is true of all metal cutting tools with the exception of taps and dies which must be turned backwards to remove.
To install the headset cups slide the multi diameter washer on the shaft with the correct diameter for the cups to be installed facing away from the T-handle. Slide a headset cup onto the shaft and make sure that the washer fits properly. Insert the shaft through the head tube; slip the other headset cup on the shaft followed by the T-nut. Make sure that the appropriate diameter on the T-nut is facing the cup and fits properly. Turn the T-nut until the cups are loosely pressed into the ends of the head tube. Make sure that everything is in alignment, and then press the cups into the head tube by turning the T-handle clockwise until you feel an abrupt stop. This stop indicates that the cups are seated and no further pressing is needed. Turn the handle counterclockwise to remove. The cone and spring are not used for this operation. Always use eye protection and mind the sharp edges when using cutting tools |
BP-1 Punch
BP-1 Is a punch for quickly removing the"second" sealed bearing from a hub or bottom bracket. The end of the punch is machined to fit 10mm, 12mm, 15mm and 17mm bearing IDís. Includes a pilot ring to keep the punch centered in large diameter hubs and bottom brackets. The end of the punch has a cap to prevent the punch from going through the pilot and landing on the mechanics foot. Remove the first bearing by driving out with the axle or spindle if there are internal shoulders. If there are no internal shoulders on the shaft use the BR sealed bearing removal kit. Slip the punch through the hub using the pilot ring if needed, make sure that the punch nose is centered in the bearing and tap the bearing out. Works on any hub or bottom bracket with æ inch or larger ID. |
Fork Crown Race Cutter FCS
The BR fork crown race cutter set consists of an aluminum handle, three guide rings: 1", 1 1/8" & 1 1/4"; three hollow tool steel milling cutters with IDs of 26.4 mm for 1" steer tubes, 30 mm for 1 1/8" steer tubes and 33 mm for 1 1/4""steer tubes and a storage base to hold the components. An optional cutter with 27 mm ID for JIS 1" steer tubes is available. Note that these cutters have built-in guides to assure that the bearing seat which it cuts, is coaxial with the steer tube. This makes for a more accurate bearing alignment on most forks, but precludes the use of these cutters on steer tubes, which are bulged, larger than the nominal dimension of the steer tube.
To cut a crown race bearing seat on the fork, select and insert the appropriate guide ring and milling cutter. Tighten the set screws just enough to retain the ring and cutter. Mount the fork so that it is held firmly as considerable force is needed to cut the seat. Apply cutting oil generously to the cutter and fork crown before and during the process. Slip the cutter over the end of the steer tube and guide it gently onto the fork crown to be cut. Press down on the bar and turn the handle clockwise as seen from above. As the cut progresses clear the metal chips from the cutter teeth and apply more cutting oil. Cut until bright metal shows all of the way around the seat. It takes some amount of downward pressure to make the cutter bite into the metal. Some other makes of fork crown cutters use a spring to help exert this pressure, but ask any machinist about "springiness" and metal cutting. It may cause chattering of the cutter and leave a rippled surface for the bearing to seat on. When the effort to maintain this pressure becomes excessive the cutter is dull and needs to be sharpened. Never turn the tool counter clockwise while the cutter is in contact with the fork crown! When a metal cutting tool is turned backwards the very fine cutting edge may be chipped and therefore dull. This is true of all metal cutting tools with the exception of taps and dies which must be turned backwards to remove. For more information about metal cutting operations on bicycles see the how to use this book, Materials, Tools section in Sutherland Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics. Always use eye protection and mind the sharp edges and chips when using cutting tools. |
Sealed Bearing Remover Kit The BR sealed bearing remover kit contains three punches, five expansion rings and a plastic storage base. This kit allows the removal of sealed bearings with IDís of 1Omm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm and -inch. These bearings may be easily removed even if you cannot get behind the bearing due to an internal spacer in the hub, free hub or bottom bracket. The kit works with most bearings used in bicycles such as numbers 6000, 6001, 6002, 6200, 6802, 6900, 6901, 6902, 6903, SL-650 and the R8VS used in wheel chair hubs. The smallest punch is used for 1Omm ID bearings only. The middle size punch is to be used for 12mm and -inch ID bearings by changing the expansion ring to suit the bearing. The large size punch is to be used for 15mm and 17mm ID bearings by changing the expansion ring to suit the bearing. Use the proper size expansion ring for the bearing to be removed! Never expand the rings unless they are in a bearing with the correct size ID. These rings are designed to expand only about one thousandth of an inch and will be ruined if over expanded.
Some things to consider before you start removing bearings
Note the position of the bearings, seals, spacers, washers, lock rings, etc., as you take the hub apart. It is imperative that the hub is reassembled exactly as it was assembled at the factory. A missing or improperly installed component can lead to excessive friction in the bearings and a short life. Some free hubs have internal snap rings and/or locked-in-place spacers to locate the bearings. Be sure you know the way the free hub is assembled before trying to drive out a bearing that cannot come out until a snap ring or spacer is first removed! If you do not know the assembly of any component that you are going to work on, proceed with caution! Bearings that are installed with loctite or which have corrosion between the outer race and the hub shell may be difficult if not impossible to remove.
Removing bearings To remove a bearing, slip the punch through the hub with the expansion ring going in last. There is a tendency for the ring to expand and bind if it is pushed through the bearings. Position the tool so that the ring is centered in the bearing to be removed as shown by a small part of the ring extending outside the bearing. With Allen wrenches on opposite ends of the tool, tighten with moderate force. (5mm for the smaller punches and 6mm for the large punch) To protect the Allen socket on the end of the punch, use a soft face hammer to drive the bearing out of the hub. There should be no problem removing bearings that are in properly fitted holes. If the tool slips through the bearing, check for loctite or corrosion. You may try again using more force to expand the ring, but do not use more force than may be comfortably applied with standard length Allen wrenches. To remove the bearing from the tool, loosen the bolt about one turn and pull the bearing off. If the bearing is on very tight, a light tap on the backside of the bearing will dislodge it. After the bearing on one side is removed, a solid punch such as the Bicycle Research BP-1 should be used to remove the second bearing if the bore of the hub is large enough to allow it. If you should use the expansion ring tool to remove the second bearing, do so with caution. Be sure to strike the punch squarely as the expansion ring may be damaged if the tool is hit to one side. All bearings that are removed by being driven out by the inner race should be considered damaged and replaced. This is true whether using our tool or any other tool. New bearings are relatively inexpensive compared to a warrantee repair for a failed bearing.
Some Important Notes about Sealed Bearings ... The sealed bearings used in bicycles are lightly loaded and rotate at very low speed, so they should last a long time. Failure of these bearings is generally due to internal contamination by water and/or grit, or is due to misalignment. There is little that the bicycle mechanic can do about the contamination problem, but the alignment is something that the mechanic has some control over. As mentioned before, when disassembling a hub, free hub or bottom bracket be sure to note the location of any seals, spacers, washers, lock rings or other parts so that they may be put back in the exact same location when reassembled. The design of quality bicycle components is precise and any error in assembly may cause premature failure of the bearings. Another common cause of bearing misalignment is an axle that is bent by being installed in dropouts that are not parallel. Always check the dropouts with a dropout alignment gage and correct as needed. This includes new bicycles! Tightening a hub in misaligned dropouts may bend an axle to the extent that the bearings will bind. This is particularly true of hubs with small diameter axles. The old cup and cone bearings were a combination radial-thrust design, which could tolerate some misalignment. The modern sealed bearing in use today is a precision radial design that must be properly installed to provide the long life and low drag that they are capable of. A bearing is no better than its mounting! |
Brake Boss Mill BM-1 - 8 mm for cantilever brake bosses
The brake boss mill is used to repair damaged cantilever or U brake bosses on frames and forks. It is intended to correct slightly bulged, flared, or oversize bosses. The boss may be lengthened by cutting into the base. Do not attempt to repair a bent boss with this tool, as it will weaken the boss. It may also be used to remove any paint that may be on the boss. To use this tool, first remove the pilot screw from the top of the tool and put it onto the brake boss, finger tight. This pilot will make it easy to align the cutter straight onto the boss. Slip the tool over the pilot and turn clockwise as you feed the tool down the boss to the base. Use cutting Oil! Be sure to return the pilot back to the top of the tool after use so that it will not be misplaced. When not in use, keep the tool oily to prevent corrosion, and protect the cutting edges from damage. To facilitate sharpening the cross bar may be removed by loosening the setscrew below the pilot.
ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN USING CUTTING TOOLS AND MIND THE SHARP EDGES |
